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Showing posts from 2016

Sedition Wars: Akosha Nama

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I finished Akosha Nama from Sedition Wars over the weekend, trying to find an effective way to paint characters quickly.
I started with a spray undercoat of GW Corax White, and then did two washes of Asurman Blue over her body suit, followed by a light drybrush of GW Lothern Blue.

Hair was done in GW Liche Purple, highlighted by mixing GW Skull White. Skin was P3 Midland Flesh with GW Ogryn Flesh Wash and highlighted with Midland Flesh and GW Skull White. Brown straps was Reaper Harvest Brown washed with Army Painter Strong Tone. Armour plates painted with GW Codex Grey. Armour plates painted GW Skull White. Finally, some scratches on her armour plates with a brush and a sponge, using Vallejo German Black Brown.

Sedition Wars: Painting Sci-Fi Bases

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The Sedition Wars board game comes with some great sci-fi bases, all in hard plastic. I'll go through my process of painting them in this blog post.
I start by sticking them down with blu-tac (or whatever your local equivalent is) to a big board, and give the whole lot an undercoat of Chaos Black spray.
With an airbrush, I use Vallejo Air German Grey and spray all the main big areas of the bases, leaving a darker gap along details such as panel lines. I follow this with a second spray on a progressively smaller area of Vallejo Air Light grey. I then use the airbrush to pick out areas which I want lit up with P3 Arcane Blue (thinned with Windex). This is the start of the lighting effects on the bases. I then use a sponge (just a corner ripped off the foam backing in a blister pack) to dab on scratches. The scratches are Vallejo German Camo Black Brown.
I then had some Anarchy Stencils handy, so I jused a few to airbrush on some writing and designs onto a few of the bases. I used V…

Sedition Wars: Painting the Strain

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Once upon a time, I backed a Kickstarter named Sedition Wars. And this month I decided to paint it - boardgame painting mode in full swing!

I started by undercoating a batch of the Strain with GW Corax White and gave each of them two coats of GW Carroburg Crimson.

Here are some shots with the first coat of the Carroburg Crimson wash. A close up of a phase 3 Strain showing all the details on the restic.
And a larger batch of them. After a second coat, the colour really gets a lot of depth. I worked in smaller groups of 3 to 4 models. The next step was to pick out the metal parts in Vallejo Air Steel. All the steel bits now got a wash of Army Painter Dark Tone. As I wanted a space prison theme, I painted all the clothing in orange. I found Army Painter Lava Orange was perfect, easily covering in 2 to 3 thin coats. Again I worked in batches, painting the orange in small groups. The orange was highlighted by mixing a small amount of GW Skull White (White Scar now) and layered up. The big…

Reaper Bones Mocking Beast

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Here's a Reaper mocking beast (i.e. not-a-minic) I painted recently. Based up and ready to include with my Super Dungeon Explore.

Basically all washes, drybrushing and a few details picked out such as the teeth and tongue. Added some diamontes to the base for a bit of extra colour.



Hero Quest Barbarian and Conan Boardgame Size Comparison

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So recently, I received my rewards from the Conan kickstarter by Monolith Games. What a crazy box of miniatures!  Since I had painted the Hero Quest barbarian and blogged about it recently, I thought I'd show you a comparison of the Conan miniatures so you can see the scale and size difference. 

It's a shame the light grey plastic fails to show off the details, but it definitely is quite a nice Conan miniature! Here's a photo of the awesome Amari miniature from Reaper's Pathfinder range as a comparison.

Amari (and the Reaper range in general) are better scaled with the original Hero Quest miniatures, but having said that, the Conan game does it's best to give you a full complement of heroes, anti-heroes and denizens if you wish to use them in your dungeon crawling game.
PS. Yes that is Sedition Wars in the background. More on that one next time.

Hero Quest: Barbarian Repair and Restoration (Part 3)

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The last part of my Hero Quest Barbarian restoration project. All finished and ready to smash some heads in the next game of Hero Quest (or any other dungeon crawl that needs a buff meat shield). For the previous instalments:
Part 1Part 2 Here he is with the rest of the flesh finished. Same technique as described in Part 2. I also added some Burnt Umber oil paint to add some further depth to the shadows.

I base-coated the other parts of him brown or black. I used Vallejo Game Air Charred Brown as it is nice and dark.

Reaper Leather was used to then highlight his boots.
I liked the colour so much that after doing the boots, I then did his fur loin cloth in the same colour and then did another highlight over the area with some white mixed into the brown. The boots were then given a wash with Army Painter Strong Tone.
I painted the sword in Vallejo Air Steel.

I then changed my mind and painted it with GW Lead Belcher, and gave it a very soft wash with thinned down Army Painter Dark Tone.

Hero Quest: Barbarian Repair and Restoration (Part 2)

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Part 1 is here!
So after a year of having this guy sit on the shelf, I finally returned to him to see if I can get this project finished.
I started with a Skull White spray undercoat. Next came an airbrush coat of Vallejo Air Dwarf Flesh.
I then gave the skin a good wash with Army Painter Soft Tone. Finally I started with painting the eyes and highlighting with Vallejo Air Dwarf Flesh and Pale Flesh. Only the face, abs and fingers done so far. I'll follow this technique over the rest of the skin areas next.

Reaper Bones: Kraken

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Managed to finish this Reaper Bones Kraken. I tried for a tinted blue base to give the feeling of underwater, but kept the kraken itself in strong contrasting colours.

Here are a number of work in progress photos (and the full size versions of the above photos at the bottom):



The base was actually painted in normal colours, and then tinted with blue paint via an airbrush.





I mixed the original colour with blue to dry-brush back up the texture, and also used washes to tone down the blues.






Kelp was added using foil and dressmaker pins, and then airbrushed and added to the base.





Here are the full size photos against the black backdrop.